Preheat the oven to 350 degrees F. Spray 2 muffin tins with nonstick spray.: You will notice the oven warming and the ambient air steadying, which ensures even baking. This temperature encourages the custard to set slowly, preventing the top from browning too fast while allowing the interior to become tender. A common mistake is putting the pans into an oven that is not fully preheated, which results in uneven texture. If you use a thermometer, aim for consistent heat around 350 degrees F .
Thinly slice the potatoes to be about 1/8 inch thick. I use my mandolin for this but you can also use a knife! Place the potatoes in a large pot.: The ease of release is palpable when the tins are prepared, and you can hear a light hiss as the spray covers the wells. This step reduces sticking and preserves the delicate edges after baking. Pressing too hard or skipping this step can lead to tearing when unmolding. Use a thin coating rather than a heavy glug of spray to avoid pooling.
Pour the cream and milk over the potatoes. Add the garlic, salt, pepper, sage, thyme and nutmeg. Bring the mixture to a simmer over medium heat. Simmer, until fork tender, about 8 to 10 minutes.: Thin slices allow the creamy custard to penetrate and cook each layer uniformly, creating that signature tender, cohesive texture. I use a mandolin for consistent results, which also produces a quiet, rhythmic slicing sound. If slices are uneven, some will overcook while others remain firm, so take care and use a guard for safety.
Now it’s time to fill the muffin tins! Use a slotted spoon or kitchen tongs to place a few slices of potatoes into the first muffin tin. Sprinkle some cheese on top - a mix of the fontina and gruyere. Add another layer of potatoes over top, then another sprinkling of cheese. Use a spoon or small measuring cup to scoop some cream from the pot of potatoes. Stream it into the muffin tin, filling it 3/4 of the way full to the top. Top with more cheese if needed. You can see my photos above!: The pot becomes the staging area where the cream and aromatics meet the potatoes . As you layer them into the pot, you can feel the coolness of the slices and see them shingle slightly. Crowding the pot is fine, but make sure there is room to pour the cream so the liquid coats everything evenly. Avoid using a tiny pot that causes spills when you add the liquid.
Repeat with all the muffin tins. The exact amount will depend on how thinly you slice your potatoes, but you should easily get 15 muffin tins of potatoes and cheese, up to 24 tins. You do not have to use all the cream in the pot! Only use enough to fill the muffin tins 3/4 of the way full once they have the potatoes and cheese in them.: The liquid should gently envelop the slices, their edges softening as they warm. Add the minced garlic , kosher salt , ground black pepper , dried sage , thyme , and freshly ground nutmeg so the flavors infuse. Bring this mixture to a gentle simmer on medium heat, and you will start to smell the herbs and garlic blooming. If you let it boil vigorously, the cream can break or reduce too quickly, so keep it gentle.
Place the pans in the oven and bake for 40 to 45 minutes. Remove and let cool slightly for 5 to 10 minutes before taking the potatoes out of tins, using a knife around the edges if they are stuck. Garnish with fresh thyme!: During simmering, steam rises and the potatoes start to give when pierced with a fork, a clear cue that they are ready. This partial cooking shortens oven time and ensures an even, tender interior. Over simmering will make the slices too soft and cause them to disintegrate during assembly, so test early and often.
Use a slotted spoon or kitchen tongs to place a few slices of potatoes into the first muffin tin: The tactile act of layering is satisfying, and you can feel the warmth and weight of the slices as you fill each cup. Start with a base of potatoes , then sprinkle a mix of the grated fontina cheese and gruyere cheese . Building layers this way ensures even distribution of custard and cheese throughout the cup. Avoid overstuffing, because it can prevent the custard from setting properly.
Add another layer of potatoes over top, then another sprinkling of cheese: Layering creates alternating bands of creamy custard and melted cheese, which yield a rich, structured bite. As you add each layer, press gently so they nestle, and you will notice the cream sheen between slices. If you layer haphazardly, some tins may end up denser than others, causing inconsistent baking.
Use a spoon or small measuring cup to scoop some cream from the pot of potatoes: Streaming the warm custard into each tin brings the flavors together, and you will see the liquid settling into the crevices. Fill each cup about 3/4 of the way full to leave room for gentle bubbling and expansion. Filling too full can cause overflow and uneven browning during baking.
Top with more cheese if needed: The visual cue here is a light, even layer of cheese that will melt and brown attractively. The cheeses will bubble and create a slightly crisp surface edge, giving pleasant texture contrast. Too much cheese on top can form a thick crust that sets before the interior is fully cooked, so aim for balance.
Repeat with all the muffin tins: Consistency at this stage matters. The quantity you get will depend on slice thickness, but aim for evenly filled tins so each serving bakes the same. If you leave some cream unused, that is fine, it prevents over sogginess. A frequent misstep is uneven filling, which leads to some tins finishing earlier than others.
Place the pans in the oven and bake for 40 to 45 minutes: You will hear a faint bubbling as the custard sets and smell the cheeses toasting. The tops should turn a warm golden and the centers should feel set, not jiggly, when gently nudged. Baking too briefly leaves the interior loose, while baking too long can dry the cups and make the edges overly crisp.
Remove and let cool slightly for 5 to 10 minutes before taking the potatoes out of tins: Resting firms the custard and makes unmolding much easier, and you will notice the aroma deepen as they rest. Run a knife around the edges if they stick, then invert carefully. Trying to remove them too hot often leads to collapsing or tearing, so patience is rewarded.
Garnish with fresh thyme: The final aromatic lift from fresh thyme brightens each bite and adds color. Scatter leaves or a small sprig for presentation. Adding the herb too early can dry it out in the oven, so reserve it for finishing.